From a photographic point of view, a box is by definition a dark place where there are people in motion, lights and temperature in various colors.
There are many different approach this type of shooting ways, either through the report "people", via a graphical view, a more artistic approach to the flash, in natural light, the slow shutter etc ... material will also vary depending on your approach.
I will attempt here to offer technical and practical information on this particular type of shooting.
This tutorial could also be called "well manage its exposure to flash."
Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1 sec focal length 17mm, aperture 5.6 iso: 100
The picture box (oriented "people", that is to say one or more well exposed with good ambient light people) or equivalent does not require a very specific material and a SLR entry-level external flash , and preferably a large angle.
Flash: Internal flash can troubleshoot your case in some cases, but its weaknesses are quickly felt. The power is sufficient in most cases, but the range, distribution and charging cycle, they do not. The surface of the flash being quite small, the light is very concentrated. In the wide angle flash will not cover your entire field.
Also note that the internal flash with a pretty big goal or a visor will help to illuminate your entire field.
We will therefore turn to an external flash that offers more power with recycling time well below the internal flash. Another advantage of the external flash is to use accessories distribution.
There to soften and diffuse the flash of your external flash a lot of solutions:
- Lambency sphere : The best solution in terms of value for me is a copy of the Gary Fong Lightsphere, Lambency sphere, the light is made really impressive but its imposing side is not recommended in the turbulent atmosphere. We meet immediately with a column of 40 cm attached to the flash shoe.
- Foldable accessories and scratchables: Lumiquest also offers a range of small light box ball inflatable broadcasting. The small light box really adds value, the light is more diffuse.
- Broadcasters default : With some flash pros (like Nikon SB800 from home) you get a small plastic dome broadcasting, which remains in place and has the merit of not hinder you to use. This kind of accessories is also available for most flash market via Ebay.
- DIY home made: It's good to spread the white plastic cup with flash oriented at 45 ° has already helped me a handkerchief secured with a rubber band, a film photo tube with a hole to let the head flash, a card held fixed with an elastic hair to make a hat broadcast flash, short broadcast, be creative!
Nikon D200 Matrix Metering Speed 1/3 sec focal length 18mm, aperture 4 iso: 100
If you are looking to have group photos with well-lit subjects and a good ambient light there is no point investing in glass, the classic goal of your kit will be more than enough, most of these entry-level zooms start and end at 18 mm or 70 mm to 50 openings 3.5 to 4.5.
Most of the photos in this article are made to an opening of 4 to 5.6, opening that allows me to have a wider range of sharpness, people are not all aligned at the time of shooting and most of the time they are moving.
Nikon D200 Spot Metering Speed 1/13 sec 50mm focal length, aperture 1.6 iso: 500
The wide angle (below 18mm), he captures images of the general atmosphere, work on the deformation to create dynamic images ... Note that the deformation depends on the distance from the development and the effect short distance is not the most flattering on faces (big nose small ears).
A grand opening will allow the card to play more of the available light, sometimes by way of the flash, for example, to a DJ who mixes a very bright little TV is the ideal (such as a 85 mm).
In this example against an open 1.6 50mm allowed me to work without flash to take advantage of ambient lighting available. In this case, using the flash, I would not have been able to preserve this beautiful bright atmosphere.
He must know that in most clubs, where people dance is usually dark enough to make the play of light in value. So hope to the group photo without flash in this type of situation is rather illusory, they are fighting against the shallow depth of field, the increasing iso and noise.
This is obviously the key: good exposure will be a refund of the lighting quality, while ensuring that individuals are exposed. In contrast, poor exhibition will an image with a black background with no ambient light and burnt face.
Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1 sec focal length 19mm, aperture 3.2 iso: 100
If I select the aperture priority mode with matrix metering on my camera with the flash attached, the selected speed is the speed of the flash sync (which is in most cases fixed at 1/60), the result will in most the optimum exposure topics, but a very dark background and without room light, while giving a very flat image.
If I turn off my flash and I select shutter priority mode with matrix metering and pause long enough, the resulting image will be blurred, but restoring the good evening light.
The best option is to work in manual setting an opening (desired depth of field) and velocity versus artificial light available. Flash, he will be responsible for fully expose the subject, the duration of the pause in turn will influence the presence of background. I usually work with an aperture of F4 with an exposure time of 1/6 that varies depending on the desired effect and the available light.
Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1/10 sec 18mm focal length, aperture 4.5 iso: 100
Why is that my subjects are net despite the long pause? The explanation is simple: the duration of a flash is very short, the flash will freeze the dark foreground, slow break will do "mount" the background.
During the second exposure, or one is fixed and the bottom will be present and bright, or you can for example turn the housing to create this kind of lighting effect
It is therefore necessary to place each photo in order to "build" a bright background, adjust the aperture according to the subject (a person, group), adjust its speed to be more or less ambient light.
In short, to sum up all the exposure part of this tutorial:
There is a bright background, with three smiling people: we light the flash car, isos at least one pass in manual mode, pause one second, opening 5.6:
- Too much background light, the speed is increased
- Not enough background light, the speed is reduced
Flash Sync: first and second curtain?
At the case we will be able to choose between two types of flash sync:
- The first curtain (highly recommended): The flash from when you press the shutter button, the shutter stays open time to capture the atmosphere (exposure time that you have chosen)
- Second curtain: When you press the shutter button, the shutter opens, capture light and flash unit at the end of the exhibition, the subject is caught on camera at the end of the exposure time. Meanwhile the issue is likely to move even from ....
White balance and isos
Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1 sec 28mm, aperture 5.6 iso: 100
Flash the auto white balance is very effective if you are working in available light will require manual work, as you adapt to changes in light.
If you work in raw and your balance is incorrect you can change it without losing quality
via your favorite RAW processing software. The raw is a must for me in terms of time saving way. In one to capture a series of 250 images taken, post-processing (setting white balance, contrast, saturation) takes me about 25 minutes.
Flash, I always keep my isos at least for pictures without flash is of course depending on the length and speed.
On the spot
Once there, with your camera in hand, you lose your status as a photographer to become a housing mounted on a tripod: while you're busy photographing a group of people grab you by the shoulder to make you scream in ear they also they would be well taken picture.
So be ready to handle this kind of situation, so a secure its equipment against shocks by holding a arm or along the body. It depends of course places and the public.
In this type of situation, artistic research is quickly compromised, we take the time to look for a frame, an expression is part and a second one is left with a caked in his core group, displaying a beautiful smile frozen.
Nikon D200 Spot Metering speed 1/320 sec focal length 50mm, aperture 1.4 iso: 160
A good method is to arrive earlier on site to identify interesting funds and establish a kind of short trip to take in the evening.
You are also asked constantly to show the picture you just made, which certainly will lead to a series of five images to be sure everyone is on the image. It takes time and batteries. Once your picture taken borrow small device path in the face, the group will understand that you have spotted a photo to achieve.
If your autofocus does not catch and you feel that the group is losing patience, use your flash test button, people will be relieved, come back a few minutes later to complete the picture.
Be mobile, the worst is to stay at a place as this will in most cases lead to a queue for the photo, and prevent you from pursuing attractive images.
Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1.3 sec focal length 12mm, aperture 4 iso: 100
Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1/60 sec Focal 50 mm, aperture 2.8 iso: 100
Nikon D200 Spot Metering speed 1/60 sec 12mm focal length, aperture 4 iso: 100
RAW or JPEG?
"The RAW format (or rather as RAW formats is a good package) represents the raw data collected by the sensor at the time of the shooting. Sensor is colorblind inbred and receives information brightness usually interpreted using the Bayer matrix, with RGB color filters, it is obvious that raw file requires a sophisticated treatment for a presentable picture And there you have two options..:
Trusting the DSP processor camera that turns the raw file in JPEG or TIFF (rare) format applying the passage all the settings you have previously selected (white balance, saturation, tone curve, color space , sharpness, etc..).
Perfect, you are finally in possession (try to palpate a file, it is difficult) a ready file. Happiness? Yes, if you have your perfectly controlled shooting, the white balance is with onions and set your file with impeccable precision. I never did come close to perfection by shooting JPEG. This is despite the use of traditional techniques (and thermocolorimeter meter) used to overcome my fears facing a new technology.
The use of JPEG involves knowing what you will do for your image. Offset printing, Internet, photo finishing Minilab publication, each use requires very specific parameters of development and you can not know in advance whether such and such a picture will not be used in a different context originally envisaged.
But beyond the constraints on the choice of parameters, you know that the JPEG or TIFF file is a streamlined interpretation amputated your captured file? You took care to cram 4096 shades per channel (12 bit = usual depth of a digital SLR camera) to end up with 256 levels (8 bits = JPEG or TFF produced by your camera file) to arrival? Well, it's stupid not to choose what you throw in the process ... "