From a photographic point of view, a box is by definition a dark place where there are people in motion, lights and temperature in various colors.
There are many different approach this type of shooting ways, either through the report "people", via a graphical view, a more artistic approach to the flash, in natural light, the slow shutter etc ... material will also vary depending on your approach.
I will attempt here to offer technical and practical information on this particular type of shooting.
This tutorial could also be called "well manage its exposure to flash."
The Material
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Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1 sec focal length 17mm, aperture 5.6 iso: 100 |
The picture box (oriented "people", that is to say one or more well exposed with good ambient light people) or equivalent does not require a very specific material and a SLR entry-level external flash , and preferably a large angle.
Flash: Internal flash can troubleshoot your case in some cases, but its weaknesses are quickly felt. The power is sufficient in most cases, but the range, distribution and charging cycle, they do not. The surface of the flash being quite small, the light is very concentrated. In the wide angle flash will not cover your entire field.
Also note that the internal flash with a pretty big goal or a visor will help to illuminate your entire field.
We will therefore turn to an external flash that offers more power with recycling time well below the internal flash. Another advantage of the external flash is to use accessories distribution.
There to soften and diffuse the flash of your external flash a lot of solutions:
- Lambency sphere : The best solution in terms of value for me is a copy of the Gary Fong Lightsphere, Lambency sphere, the light is made really impressive but its imposing side is not recommended in the turbulent atmosphere. We meet immediately with a column of 40 cm attached to the flash shoe.
- Foldable accessories and scratchables: Lumiquest also offers a range of small light box ball inflatable broadcasting. The small light box really adds value, the light is more diffuse.
- Broadcasters default : With some flash pros (like Nikon SB800 from home) you get a small plastic dome broadcasting, which remains in place and has the merit of not hinder you to use. This kind of accessories is also available for most flash market via Ebay.
- DIY home made: It's good to spread the white plastic cup with flash oriented at 45 ° has already helped me a handkerchief secured with a rubber band, a film photo tube with a hole to let the head flash, a card held fixed with an elastic hair to make a hat broadcast flash, short broadcast, be creative!
The objectives
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Nikon D200 Matrix Metering Speed 1/3 sec focal length 18mm, aperture 4 iso: 100 |
If you are looking to have group photos with well-lit subjects and a good ambient light there is no point investing in glass, the classic goal of your kit will be more than enough, most of these entry-level zooms start and end at 18 mm or 70 mm to 50 openings 3.5 to 4.5.
Most of the photos in this article are made to an opening of 4 to 5.6, opening that allows me to have a wider range of sharpness, people are not all aligned at the time of shooting and most of the time they are moving.
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Nikon D200 Spot Metering Speed 1/13 sec 50mm focal length, aperture 1.6 iso: 500 |
The wide angle (below 18mm), he captures images of the general atmosphere, work on the deformation to create dynamic images ... Note that the deformation depends on the distance from the development and the effect short distance is not the most flattering on faces (big nose small ears).
A grand opening will allow the card to play more of the available light, sometimes by way of the flash, for example, to a DJ who mixes a very bright little TV is the ideal (such as a 85 mm).
In this example against an open 1.6 50mm allowed me to work without flash to take advantage of ambient lighting available. In this case, using the flash, I would not have been able to preserve this beautiful bright atmosphere.
He must know that in most clubs, where people dance is usually dark enough to make the play of light in value. So hope to the group photo without flash in this type of situation is rather illusory, they are fighting against the shallow depth of field, the increasing iso and noise.
The exhibition
This is obviously the key: good exposure will be a refund of the lighting quality, while ensuring that individuals are exposed. In contrast, poor exhibition will an image with a black background with no ambient light and burnt face.
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Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1 sec focal length 19mm, aperture 3.2 iso: 100 |
If I select the aperture priority mode with matrix metering on my camera with the flash attached, the selected speed is the speed of the flash sync (which is in most cases fixed at 1/60), the result will in most the optimum exposure topics, but a very dark background and without room light, while giving a very flat image.
If I turn off my flash and I select shutter priority mode with matrix metering and pause long enough, the resulting image will be blurred, but restoring the good evening light.
The best option is to work in manual setting an opening (desired depth of field) and velocity versus artificial light available. Flash, he will be responsible for fully expose the subject, the duration of the pause in turn will influence the presence of background. I usually work with an aperture of F4 with an exposure time of 1/6 that varies depending on the desired effect and the available light.
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Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1/10 sec 18mm focal length, aperture 4.5 iso: 100 |
Why is that my subjects are net despite the long pause? The explanation is simple: the duration of a flash is very short, the flash will freeze the dark foreground, slow break will do "mount" the background.
During the second exposure, or one is fixed and the bottom will be present and bright, or you can for example turn the housing to create this kind of lighting effect
It is therefore necessary to place each photo in order to "build" a bright background, adjust the aperture according to the subject (a person, group), adjust its speed to be more or less ambient light.
In short, to sum up all the exposure part of this tutorial:
There is a bright background, with three smiling people: we light the flash car, isos at least one pass in manual mode, pause one second, opening 5.6:
- Too much background light, the speed is increased
- Not enough background light, the speed is reduced
Flash Sync: first and second curtain?
At the case we will be able to choose between two types of flash sync:
- The first curtain (highly recommended): The flash from when you press the shutter button, the shutter stays open time to capture the atmosphere (exposure time that you have chosen)
- Second curtain: When you press the shutter button, the shutter opens, capture light and flash unit at the end of the exhibition, the subject is caught on camera at the end of the exposure time. Meanwhile the issue is likely to move even from ....
White balance and isos
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Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1 sec 28mm, aperture 5.6 iso: 100 |
Flash the auto white balance is very effective if you are working in available light will require manual work, as you adapt to changes in light.
If you work in raw and your balance is incorrect you can change it without losing quality
via your favorite RAW processing software. The raw is a must for me in terms of time saving way. In one to capture a series of 250 images taken, post-processing (setting white balance, contrast, saturation) takes me about 25 minutes.
Flash, I always keep my isos at least for pictures without flash is of course depending on the length and speed.
On the spot
Once there, with your camera in hand, you lose your status as a photographer to become a housing mounted on a tripod: while you're busy photographing a group of people grab you by the shoulder to make you scream in ear they also they would be well taken picture.
So be ready to handle this kind of situation, so a secure its equipment against shocks by holding a arm or along the body. It depends of course places and the public.
In this type of situation, artistic research is quickly compromised, we take the time to look for a frame, an expression is part and a second one is left with a caked in his core group, displaying a beautiful smile frozen.
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Nikon D200 Spot Metering speed 1/320 sec focal length 50mm, aperture 1.4 iso: 160 |
A good method is to arrive earlier on site to identify interesting funds and establish a kind of short trip to take in the evening.
You are also asked constantly to show the picture you just made, which certainly will lead to a series of five images to be sure everyone is on the image. It takes time and batteries. Once your picture taken borrow small device path in the face, the group will understand that you have spotted a photo to achieve.
If your autofocus does not catch and you feel that the group is losing patience, use your flash test button, people will be relieved, come back a few minutes later to complete the picture.
Be mobile, the worst is to stay at a place as this will in most cases lead to a queue for the photo, and prevent you from pursuing attractive images.
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Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1.3 sec focal length 12mm, aperture 4 iso: 100 | Nikon D200 matrix metering speed 1/60 sec Focal 50 mm, aperture 2.8 iso: 100 | Nikon D200 Spot Metering speed 1/60 sec 12mm focal length, aperture 4 iso: 100 |
RAW or JPEG?
Volker Gilbert wrote a very good book on the raw will speak better than me so I quote :
"The RAW format (or rather as RAW formats is a good package) represents the raw data collected by the sensor at the time of the shooting. Sensor is colorblind inbred and receives information brightness usually interpreted using the Bayer matrix, with RGB color filters, it is obvious that raw file requires a sophisticated treatment for a presentable picture And there you have two options..:
Trusting the DSP processor camera that turns the raw file in JPEG or TIFF (rare) format applying the passage all the settings you have previously selected (white balance, saturation, tone curve, color space , sharpness, etc..).
Perfect, you are finally in possession (try to palpate a file, it is difficult) a ready file. Happiness? Yes, if you have your perfectly controlled shooting, the white balance is with onions and set your file with impeccable precision. I never did come close to perfection by shooting JPEG. This is despite the use of traditional techniques (and thermocolorimeter meter) used to overcome my fears facing a new technology.
The use of JPEG involves knowing what you will do for your image. Offset printing, Internet, photo finishing Minilab publication, each use requires very specific parameters of development and you can not know in advance whether such and such a picture will not be used in a different context originally envisaged.
But beyond the constraints on the choice of parameters, you know that the JPEG or TIFF file is a streamlined interpretation amputated your captured file? You took care to cram 4096 shades per channel (12 bit = usual depth of a digital SLR camera) to end up with 256 levels (8 bits = JPEG or TFF produced by your camera file) to arrival? Well, it's stupid not to choose what you throw in the process ... "
December 5th, 2007 at 24:40
Hi Benjamin, thank you for this tutorial vraiement interesting!
I came across your photos of bourgeois nonsense that took place in mirano event I was there, the colors are beautiful!
http://www.photob.be/2007/09/23/folies-bourgeoises/
I was also present at the evening Soul Party who also took place at Mirano, I just found the photos of the evening performed by another photographer and it is day and night! The images are flat, no ambient light, the difference is obvious vraiement! How do you explain this big difference?
http://www.photo-deroy.be/soulparty/index_5.htm
Interesting to see the same place covered by two different looks!
December 5th, 2007 at 4:29
Hello Benjamin,
a big thank you for this new tutorial high quality. I do not write often, but I walk on your website regularly, and I learn a lot ...
Thank you to you and good result
December 5th, 2007 at 5:08
Hi Ben,
thank you for your tutorial is still learning a lot.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
A soon
December 5th, 2007 at 9:45
Thank you very much for taking the time to write this tutorial!
@ +
December 5th, 2007 at 10:13
Hi Benjamin!
Clear illsutré and more was the EXIF!
Thank you for this tutorial, it's great
Denis, is impressive not really say the same place
December 6th, 2007 at 24:39
Yop!
Very good tutorial illustré.Réellement very good teaching job!
Not con le coup fake "sudden flash" ... I happened to have the AF that skated and people became impatient and I did not know how to get by me ... To remember!
a +!
Tom
PS: We have to get to pick your batteries
December 6th, 2007 at 2:04
Good tutorial, clearly explained and beautifully illustrated!
I rejouterais (if I may say so) that can be played with the orientation of the flash (external course!) To give some effects that can sometimes nice things.
And what is the character better not be shy when you do this kind of pictures, even if it is quickly overwhelmed by people who insist their souvenir photo, it is also useful to approach people when they appear interesting (photographically speaking of course!).
By cons, it's been nine months now that I do phtos every Friday at a nightclub and I have never been able to make a picture, let alone 100ISO 100ISO and f4!
It all depends on the lighting of the place ...
But again, congratulations for this tutorial and good luck to you!
December 6th, 2007 at 7:43
That's great, your tutorials are very well done. Your site is in my list.
Congratulations, good luck.
December 6th, 2007 at 9:23
Thank you for your tutorial, it is very good (as others)
If possible, I would like to have more info on the Matrix Metering Spot VS experiencing photo box.
Thank you
Melanie
December 6th, 2007 at 10:17
very good
December 7th, 2007 at 24:22
Denis: Indeed the difference is well, I do not know the photographer who is responsible for the coverage or the way it works but say visibly exposure management was not optimal
Frogsims: Thank you, hesitate no ironing!
Ksh, delphine, Jerome Haristobald: With pleasure!
Tom PS: Yep'll need
Twane: Thank you, Playing with orientation and do bounce flash is good but you have to have surfaces to reflect your flash if it's just for the guide to the left or right and there no surface adapted to reflect will quickly drain your batteries, the flash will need a lot of power.
For isos, say that if you stay at 100 isos you simply increase your break time, or you play on your sensitivity is on your isos, exposure level is the same.
Melanie: Well, I use 90% of my photos, or spot metering to manual measurement, but it is clear that in this case the matrix is the most appropriate measure.
If you spot is on the face the cabinet will expose only your foreground and background lights will be less present
December 8th, 2007 at 24:23
hello, now we have to come to you to criticize you and gave advice
good good recess this little record is really well done but it lacks something in my opinion.
for Flash Exposure.
in fact I think some of these photos on the subject is as much if not brighter than the stage, or in reality it is not exposed (not interesting except shadow) or moin the stage, but never more .
I made the vien has you essyer measuring FE (I've put the FUNC touch the D200) and it allows for an exhibition (weighted or spot on the face) and you can thus on or underexposed so that people can have more bass than the brightness back up (and it will, in my opinion, better now integrated in the scene).
here is what was just completed for
December 8th, 2007 at 24:41
ah yes vraiement perfect for this must in my opinion a FE memo on the subject (in center-weighted or weighted and underexposed) and a memo normal expo on the bottom (slightly overexposed would be even better now).
December 8th, 2007 at 3:55
thank you for this good tutorial ben
December 9th, 2007 at 7:13
Hello Ben,
Very good tutorial explaining step by step the different methods ...
Parcontre electronic flash mounted on the housing is not essential although the contrary ...
In fact, it is possible to increase or decrease the internal flash up to + or - 2EV to obtain accurate and modeled results ...
I do not know if this otion is available on all cases with a flash ...
Stalled on the second curtain to use the pre-flash, followed by a final flash at the end of exposure.
Pq then worked more integrated flash rather than electronics, for three reasons:
- The weight
- Congestion
- Little or no difference hire in all situations
And contrary to what you say, no worries on cooldown, you just préoir the batteries fully charged ...
If parsoleil in corolla is too large, it will be meiux remove, to avoid unsightly shadows ...
In seven or eight years, I never appreciated the electronic flash, preferring by far the built-in flash ...
It is a matter of perspective ...
Preferably jpeg, for simple reasons: speed éciture - the files size - the output quality, housing adjustment 0 - final images are often for the Web -
In general, work in manual mode - average opening speed vraibale often the second sometimes coupled with two built-in flash - 1 EV for moving images artistic oriented set between ISO 100 and 400.
I prefer the manual mode to control all parameters in the silver réusltat is seen only in print, digital, it is very easy to fix expo ...
It is also possible to zoom out with higher speed 1/60 th - ISO 1600 - full exhibition opening at -2 flash that will just add to keep the natural light illumination ...
This is not an absolute truth, but with experience, these settings are common, with many ambient lighting is plsu easy, I think harder contxete in a night club, it is the lack Spot ...
Sailboat here .....
A + + +
December 9th, 2007 at 7:19
Twane, it can be a good means of communication for people with a little introverted, shy, speaking little or no the people killed objetcive's a reason to go to the people and people come to you ...
You just have to start with cold water ... once inside the body temperature to ahbitue
December 9th, 2007 at 7:41
ZANROC: I just have a little less time to spend on forums
To your point is more of a choice than a constraint, the goal is to get my vraiement subject enlightening than the bottom, if you want to decrease the expo about it seems easier to simply reduce flash power via exposure compensation
nix, thank you!
fu: The expo flash compensation is available on most boxes that is for the internal flash or external flash with a diffuser on an external flash I often give an expo correction to offset one light loss.
I also worked in internal flash but I prefer him vraiement modularity an external and a wide angle (12mm) is the more uniform coverage and more diffuse another advantage of the sun visor to protect the front lens on a very wide angle is quite prominent, now I quite agree with you, work with an internal flash can be more mobile.
Thank you for your comment!
December 10th, 2007 at 2:21
December 10th, 2007 at 2:22
Sui curious to see your next prod,
a + friend
December 11th, 2007 at 8:29
I wonder if when you did a story for an evening, you are obliged to send all pictures made or if you choose, for example, the top 50 ... Because I doubt about 300 photos, for example, every time you have impeccable quality ...
The technique of flash I just tested (again thank you for the email) three times now, is effective even if réelement often random lights are also random hard drive ... And ask people to repeat a second time. Or do two live photos?
December 12th, 2007 at 12:05
Hello Tchouk,
I am obliged to anything, but I usually offers about 200-250 images, which are "good" technically, that is to say, not blurred, a very bright background, well-exposed faces. On site I am taking pictures as I skim and measurement directly through the box a lot.
Back at home I removed about 5 to 10% of images which have passed through the skimmer (redundant or technically poor images). This gives me about 200 to 250 images. Now pictures photographically interesting I report on the fingers
December 12th, 2007 at 1:36
Thank you for your answer
You must surely count + me
But is not that you make 200photos destroy your work as a photographer? Or for you the story that's also ...
December 12th, 2007 at 4:06
What you mean by "you must surely have more than me? "
I do not see how the number of images destroy my work as a photographer.
For me it is necessary to differentiate it into three groups,
Photographic Interest: Search emotion, graphic side, the explosive side, looking strong and vivid picture, make a real artistic involvement in the process, we do not try to do 200 images, something you can research any the number of images.
The story: For me a story is to cover all aspects of an event of qualitative and selective way to represent it, it does not mean that artistic research can not be present, but it should not affect next to "witness" of the event. An evening can be quite covered 30 photos.
The pseudo people photography box: In this case it rather seeks to display a maximum of faces of identifiable people, to displaying many faces on a site will help to those who were present to reminisce and those would come to see the people who were present. Very often the control is more based on the number of images in terms of quality.
December 12th, 2007 at 7:16
What I mean by that is that you in good + experience
pitete material and then a level above ... Note, as you said well, no need for a lightning war although a small TV that opens to 2.6 should never be too much and objectives with better focus (faster and more accurate).
I frequently encounter this problem not developed by the lens when it is too dark. It does not stick and without this assistance is not pie ...
Rather I personally belong to the third group even if the report intéresserais me well ... +
30 photos for an evening that is perfect for showing a real quality work
December 12th, 2007 at 7:21
I think what I mean Tchouck is the aspect to chaînne, but the greater part of the time three quarters of managers boxes are not very regardat quality. As you say Ben, there's the more photos, the more they are happy ...
LOTS of people are already very happy to be photographed and then be on site, without perceiving the subtleties of an interesting picture ...
Photography, it is the smaller, often no budget, lots of establishment are mauavai payers, a rather unpleasant mentality ....
The photo box is the COMPROMISES to get the hand a little fun, drink to the eye, an image is concoter reserve, get hold of the fast was in a difficult situation to deal appendre people, lead, ...
Personally, I do not like this mentality, the hard-profit aspect, damage, often called the photo "artistic", is to my mind a picture of all short box including cetaies characteristics: color, atmosphere, cheerfulness, movement , ect, etc, photos rstituant as closely as possible the ephemeral context ...
+ + +
December 12th, 2007 at 9:28
Fu: I agree with you. Although I think the top would distribute 30 photos called commercial with a cd together with 200 other photos ...
December 14th, 2007 at 2:45
"... I usually offers about 200-250 images ..."
Phew you reassure me!
I said, "but how it does for so can images and equally good?
I was basing on another one of your articles where you said, I think you tried to As the "reports" to limit the number of photos taken.
In any case very good tutorial's.
You're still my reference photos
"... You scream in your ear they also they would be well taken picture."
And I might add that the alcohol, it intensifies towards the end of the evening 
Too true!
"... Think of securing their equipment against shocks by holding a arm or along the body."
Personally, I always put my camera around your neck, box or elsewhere. (A device that slips hands it quickly arrived)
But I advise in any case box "carry" his camera above the crowd. (Genre collector glass with his tray "beer")
I never had any problems but think of the other glasses and cigarette wanders in the torso. Besides strokes unfortunate elbows
December 21st, 2007 at 11:37
Good explanation of the technique, however I would suggest the opposite at the flash. I shoot the second curtain evening just create my background and then fix my issue ...
example:
http://photos.sakanadesign.com/emakina/20070623/IMG_4154.jpg
http://photos.sakanadesign.com/emakina/20070623/IMG_4167.jpg
http://photos.sakanadesign.com/emakina/20070623/IMG_4189.jpg
In the evening, sometimes people do not ask ... so I think it might be useful to "close over" for a greater depth of field. And thus avoid missing an update.
Yours,
S.
December 24th, 2007 at 7:01
Sakana, I'm not a fan of the second curtain sync, whether the first or second curtain the show is the same, the first curtain flash when you trigger your hand and your subjects are exposed, they can then block the unless you're on to have on the image.
You trigger the second curtain, and two seconds later (depending on the time of expo) the photo is in the meantime your subjects are gone.
Can you explain the choice of the second curtain?
December 27th, 2007 at 6:33
If people are posing for the camera, at least it does not move "too early"?
March 11th, 2008 at 2:01
Hello,
Super photos, in all styles, a remarkable job.
Just one thing, over the last three example photos on this page. I understand the Exif of the first photo (the two girls dancing in cons-diving), by cons I do not understand how the atmosphere of the second (dj) is so bright. the act of placing in 2.8 instead of 4 does not make the whole passage of 1.3 sec to 1/60sec, and we are left with the same expo nickel. There was a lot more light on the two?
Jean-Yves
March 11th, 2008 at 2:34
Thank you Jean-Yves
In fact I'm on the second without flash and the pictures are not taken in the same night, so yes more light without flash
April 29th, 2008 at 4:11
Benjamin Merci bcp to your site in general and your tutorials. it is a real bible.
I have been practicing photography for a little less than 5 years, including three especially nightclub. I have learned bcp on your tutorial but bcp risk on the whole passage or lon must be transformed into a tripod qd every guy stuffed the box catch you by the shoulder and splutter in the ear in a warm breath of the evil spirits that we are in the box: hey dude you make me a picture with my friends! So real! it feels the experience for you as proof that you do not walk by picking us this info in a book.
Looking forward to learn new things are on your site. In fact I prepare for FIF2008 and I ordered the Lambency Flash Diffuser for Nikon SB600 for my D200. I hope not to be disappointed!
May 17th, 2008 at 1:56
Hello Benjamin,
Towards the end of July I'll do the photo for a prom night season, and with respect to the use of flash, I wondered, in what sense it was his direct flash? focus on the subject, or rather to the ceiling, or a new direction?
Secondly I hesitated over the choice or goals. I recently purchased a 50mm 1.8 (but I have the impression that in spite of being light, the focal fix will be a problem) or 18-55 or 28-75 kit in 2.8?
thank you
July 29th, 2008 at 10:36
Hi,
This great tutorial .. I learned a lot. thank you!
However, I have a question:
What is the maximum length (p-sigma ex 10/20 for Nikon) when you use a flash kind cobra without shadow of reach? There 't there a limit? or it just depends on the orientation of the head of the flash?
July 29th, 2008 at 11:11
Bast: two months later I was answering your question: no need to invest in the light saw the opening necessary for the group photo, but everything depends of your expectations!
Benji: The problem of shadows is not one, you just know that the wireless flash accessory has a limited coverage depending on the distance from your subjects
July 30th, 2008 at 8:20
Ok! thank you ..!
August 4th, 2008 at 1:27
Hello
Thank you for this tutorial
One thing makes me hesitate to eentreprendre démarceh this is the choice of the first or second curtain. You say that with the second curtain, the subject may move with the flash pdt installation. But with the first curtain, the subject may move after it, pdt pose?
August 5th, 2008 at 24:43
chrispixe: you have to work the first curtain, allowing the flash to leave immediately, the rest of the pause time is only for the background
August 5th, 2008 at 1:47
Very good article on photography in the evenings. In my job as a wedding photographer I always use the 2nd curtain sync - the flash that fires at the end of shooting there is less risk that people move. The movement is also more natural, as there is no trainee BEFORE the subject, but behind.
August 14th, 2008 at 6:04
Hi Benjamin,
Very nice tutorial! Just a quick question, is it a foot intéréssant and practice in the evening?
August 15th, 2008 at 3:10
PMN: The fact is that you have to trigger the first curtain, when you press your hand and trigger the flash that allows you to take your picture and then expose for the background, otherwise you sink and take the photo type 2 seconds after and everyone else has already spent
Lau: Not practical, interesting to do some slow breaks
September 10th, 2008 at 6:22
Hello Benjamin,
a few months ago I tried to photography after I bought an SLR.
Could you elaborate a bit on the subject of FE advanced by ZANROC?
I do not quite understand what it is about. I have a P-TTL external flash, so what the FE?
Thank you in advance.
September 10th, 2008 at 6:35
Boris, in his remark Zanroc insite on the fact that he prefers to have less light on the subject (everyone's tastes) and thus reduce the flash output (vua exposure compensation)
September 10th, 2008 at 6:42
Ah ok, it's just the exposure compensation.
Thank you for that clarification.
PS: I came across this site yesterday and here I am reading other tutorials. Really great, congratulations!
September 10th, 2008 at 6:42
thank you!
September 18th, 2008 at 2:02
[...] Photob.be | Benjamin Brolet | photographer Brussels "The photo club, box, in the evening will bring you many answers. It takes a little time to get the hand to be able to manage a correct exposure for the background (pose long enough, AE often useful) and the public (flash, first curtain, why not with a lil diffuser to soften the light). RAW really needed in my opinion, to have more flexibility and get exposure (within reasonable limits, it is during shooting it all happens) or colors If you feel limited you by goal is the side of the large-aperture lenses to look out for. [...]
September 26th, 2008 at 11:36
Thank you very much for this little tutorial beautifully shot and a good educational interest ... Thank you for the opportunity to make pretty pictures ...
September 27th, 2008 at 7:18
Hey, little question that always nagging me ...
Whenever new or rechargeable batteries for your flash?
Because you have me say it are no longer than rechargeable have less than new non-rechargeable energy.
So I was advised of new every time ...
Just budget power level it counts if you do several evenings ...
September 27th, 2008 at 7:31
Always rechargeable batteries, you just invest in quality batteries like 2700 GP charge cycles between each flash shorter and especially autonomy than conventional batteries
September 29th, 2008 at 1:58
[...] You need more information for this type of images, you can see the tutorial on the subject of the photo in the evening. Speaking of tutorial I have just added a tutorial by Julien on long exposures and [...]
October 2nd, 2008 at 2:38
What to say about this tutorial? this is the best tutorial on the net that I saw!
Friday evening I have a cover, I noticed a few tips from your tutorial! I hope it will bring me luck despite the stress of low luminausité place and play of light!
I will send this post to see 2.3 example your point of view and what you have fixed!
good to you,
arnaud
October 17th, 2008 at 2:06
[...] Well, I just found a site that explains and give advice for photos boxes. photob.be | Benjamin Brolet | photographer Brussels "The photo club, box, in the evening For against what we call 'measurement matrix'? The equivalent of the 40D gives what? [...]
October 19th, 2008 at 2:06
What is interesting dasn all this is about clarity and illustration by examples. This is the case of many sections of this site. I never fail to mention you [and communicate a link, if applicable] when it comes to concert photos, box and other clubs. I'm really inspired me with your tutorials to improve my practice. So, thank you!
)
November 3rd, 2008 at 1:15
[...] CO Database Co more open. more for night shots I love to see the bottom, the back up, the light atmosphere. here it is non-existent or so without much interest. I recommend you the following adjustment: M mode 1/15s opening f2, 8 for solo level and 5.6 for groups looking bible lovers phtoographes: photob.be | Benjamin Brolet | photographer Brussels "The photo club, box in the evening [...]
November 18th, 2008 at 12:59
Qd I work in A + slow sync flash, I get closer to your way ... what is the manual mode?
Thank you kindly enlighten me?
November 18th, 2008 at 1:04
Thomas: The advantage of working in manual and can decide your exposure time, if you do not have enough background light you can change your exposure time. In Aperture Priority you are seated in your flash sync speed is 1/60
November 18th, 2008 at 1:07
No qd I set my flash slow sync ... the speed becomes much slower ...
November 18th, 2008 at 1:14
Possible, but it is not you who will decide to show your photo
the case will be based on your metering (matrix, weighted, spot) to calculate an exposure time based on the time when you make your measurement, knowing that in most clubs, the light changes very quickly I prefer to choose myself my exposure time.
Each of his method, I like to choose my expo myself and not let my camera decide, but if you're happy working in slow sync in Aperture Priority good
November 19th, 2008 at 9:55
Your method is undoubtedly good, btw my photos are nowhere near yours, but for the moment I lose much more responsive when using the M mode ...
Good day and thank you for sharing your experience
November 19th, 2008 at 12:08
What big difference between flash lighting (x2) and a lighting light boxes (also x2) in the same configuration "studio" and rendering b / w?
November 19th, 2008 at 12:09
You can move to the previous message in your penultimate article "Marriage" was wrong
November 20th, 2008 at 11:45
Hi Ben,
First of all congratulations for this great tutorial and thank you for sharing your experience. However, I am wondering about your usual flash settings, and I have not found answers in the tutorial and comments. What are your usual settings on the flash? rather Auto (TTL / iTTL) or manual? with power reduction of lightning? with a Nikon flash, you use the flash mode atmosphere BL dosage? thank you for all these details, and congratulations again for your work :) Good evening.
December 10th, 2008 at 4:44
Tonight I implement the tutorial
!
December 11th, 2008 at 3:19
bha good it's not easy to turn around the optical axis with the flash and lambency ...
December 29th, 2008 at 11:14
[...] Not necessarily need 1.4 or 1.2 L! look here: photob.be | Benjamin Brolet | photographer Brussels "The photo club, box, in the evening if it just to help you!! + a [...]
January 13th, 2009 at 5:09
A full frame means you apn there different settings?
I mean change of f / 5,6 and 1 "
So sinificative
January 28th, 2009 at 12:40
very good story and very good explanation!
I do not understand how the photo of the two girls in stiletto heel is 1.3 sec net. Even with a 12mm. It takes a real pro and that these little ladies do not move!
January 28th, 2009 at 11:15
WeBmaliN: No, the only influence the CDP
vince: As explained in the tutorial the exposure time has no bearing on whether or not to fix something that is in the dark, the flash that supports the pause would be able to ... 2 seconds
January 28th, 2009 at 1:11
I shoot in d700
with 3.3-5.6 28-80
and 3.5-4.5 17-35
And it will be interesting to know about your image
information style with or without flash
first or second curtain
Because I did not manage to get a background color as
on the stand
even with 1 "
notament along them
http://www.photob.be/images/tut/boite6.jpg
http://www.photob.be/images/tut/boite7.jpg
Another question what if the background is pretty
a 1 "so that people are not exposed to
reduce its power flash or expo?
In the photo with the girls heel snuff in their entirety if there is flash, which gives you a direction to properly expose your flash your photo, to walk, to visable, with or without diffuser ...
January 28th, 2009 at 1:44
WeBmaliN: Most of my images contain EXIF data, I am always the first curtain, if you do not have enough ambient light it takes more time to expo or greater sensitivity.
To avoid such issues are on the condition of having no direct light on the subject.
For the photo with the girls is the direct flash on the subject without diffuser.
February 3rd, 2009 at 1:02
Hi Ben,
Small way to thank you for this article, I made my first pictures Saturday evening, and I have carefully read and followed your advice have been of great help!
I picked up a 50mm 1.4 and Tokina 12-24, but happiness!
Soon
Jonathan
February 18th, 2009 at 8:32
[...] Is the question settings. For my part, I followed the advice of Benjamin Brolet on its page dedicated to party pictures. My settings are the following [...]
March 5th, 2009 at 7:06
hi,
great article, I wondered how such effects in the evening we did.
However, I have not seen many explanations of the flash setting.
I saw a photographer evening d200 18-55 2.5 + vertical Omnibounce SB800 with SB800 and a second in hand. I saw on d200 1/3sec F7.1 and he told me flash to 1/128.
I have a d300 + SB800 + SB900 therefore well equipped to do the same. can you a little more detail the influence of 1/128 ... on the photo, the two flashes have to be in 1/128 ...? I guess low power gives very brief flash poiur capture bine net movement 1/3sec then capture the lights ...
how to program the flash? su-4?
thank you
Marc
March 5th, 2009 at 9:13
And a large fries with mayo 'for me ...
April 7th, 2009 at 4:35
Hi Benjamin!
Firstly, a big thank you for this tutorial is great! I love your photos ...
I have a few questions to help me better understand:
Under what conditions do you use a diffuser or other accessories?
Do you use the diffuser supplied with the flash? If any accessory?
Do you work only direct flash? (Whether in the evening, wedding, ...)
In your Exif, I see "Flash = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
"I work out when I live I flash it" = Flash Strobe return light detected
"What's the difference?
Thank you and congratulations for your beautiful photos!
Stephanie
April 16th, 2009 at 4:37
hi,
I just found this site very interesting! good ideas to overcome the difficulties of some shots! But I ask a small question: when you say you should ask one second at full aperture to freeze the subject and raise the bottom, ok, but how not to move for 1 second? even with an optical stabilized, it is not over! on a wedding, the priest may take it badly if you go up on a tripod with the hotel!
how you doing?
thank you in advance!
seb
April 20th, 2009 at 11:01
Should read everything sir Seb, an exposure time of one second, it's not really for weddings! (There is usually enough light to flash spend elsewhere) But the long exposure time is not a concern because the flash "freezes" the subject and the shutter stays open then to arrive at the second ... so basically, your subject is sharp and your background will blur (blur) ... And it is you can start being creative. (Move the housing once the flash has his job ...). And just a little info: "hotel" is for the wedding night, "altar" is the church!
p
May 8th, 2009 at 11:31
Thank you for all the info Benjamin ... I'll just need it for the next week-end. A DJ friend who asked me to photograph her in a box for promo. I will try to follow your advice. I have trained with my flash on my nephew 3 months ....
May 10th, 2009 at 3:42
[...] In the bible "photo evening" kind) put it very well and advised in his tutorial. Big thank you to [...]
May 12th, 2009 at 3:15
It is asking an opinion on some pictures rather a poor student party that directed me to your site.
If I had known, I would probably run better instantly.
Although returns were positive (people being clear and not overexposed) I was far from dynamic and pétants rendered.
Anyway, thank you for the info, agreed to the first curtain.
Good luck
June 27th, 2009 at 10:23
Very good tutorial (yes I repeat a little of what was said ^ ^) that gives good techniques to start (something that tempts me more). I recently discovered your website and I spend a lot of time over which the digital plunge in recent months.
July 16th, 2009 at 4:48
Hello
A tutorial as it is not in n bcp on the net.
Your tutorial greatly served by my report my taf photographer tribe evening at night.
As colorful pictures of it was a fantasy.
Now a reality every day and all the boxes in which I'll take pictures.
A big thank you to you.
A gallery evening and available on my website:
http://www.arthuro.book.fr/gal-11-1.htm
September 30th, 2009 at 3:23
[...] Read the article by Benjamin Brolet on his website: photob.be | Benjamin Brolet | photographer Brussels "The photo club, box, in the evening it is someone extremely gifted (see various porfolios ) ... but beware, it is [...]
October 30th, 2009 at 11:03
Hi Benjamin,
just a message to say thank you again for the tutorials, they are beautiful and very well explained.
I'll test it tonight.
Thank you.
January 1st, 2010 at 4:12
great I made a 0.6 s test and iso 200 f4 is impeccable thank you very much
February 8th, 2010 at 10:02
Wow, very interesting site and bcp talent!
Thanks
February 12th, 2010 at 4:24
Thank you for this tutorial!
for the flash, you put s what fashion? TTL, Manual ...? and generally directs you how?
thank you in advance for your answer!
February 23rd, 2010 at 2:12
Hello, I have a canon EOS 1000D with Sigma Flash EF-530 DG ST EO-ETTL II and zoom Sigma 18-200 f3, 5/6, 3. I just launched my last weekend in pictures disco. Result of my photos with a white veil before or if too much light flash. Someone can give me the right adjustment for my device? I have trouble finding MY setting. Thank you.
March 16th, 2010 at 11:52
Hello,
thank you for this great help! super
one question: what mode you manage light measurement Benjamin during the evening? the "matrix" mode?
a big thank you.
Cordially.
March 26th, 2010 at 11:19
tip top this tutorial!
April 17th, 2010 at 5:04
Very clear and well illustrated tutorial! Frankly I learned a lot in a short time!! Continue as his good job!
May 31st, 2010 at 6:29
I did not even know they existed.
July 14th, 2010 at 11:51
Hello everyone,
At first I wanted to thank Benjamin for this great tutorial ... Very rewarding.
Starting in the photo, however, I had some questions.
I am equipped with a Canon 450d 18-55 IS, and I'm looking to do similar to that pictures of Dj in the "goals" and enjoy the mood lighting available.
In this example, Benjamin used an open 50mm 1.6 without flash.
In my case, my camera does not allow me to have an opening of 4 to 5.6.
Should I put in Av mode with a depth of field (f / 4)?
And if I put in manual mode, what are the settings I have set for this type of photo? (Iso, speed)
Thank you in advance
Florian
August 26th, 2010 at 4:31
First in AV mode ... you may have quite random because of the constant change of light results. I would say it is better to stay in manual mode.
Second with a 18-55 like yours in the end lens (55mm) you'll automatically at f5.6. Unless the DJ is illuminated with spotlights 1000 watts you can not make a picture.
Will be a ride here: http://www.julienboisard.fr/html/techniques1.html
You will understand better how to estimate the light and adjust your camera accordingly.
Without flash f5, 6, you should be 3200ISO and 1/5sec for correct exposure. But at such a low speed will blur the subject.
In short, there is a gun in brilliant 50mm I call Fisher-Price since it is all plastic ... But 95 € and an open f1.8 ... it is unbeatable!
Good fun!
August 27th, 2010 at 6:58
thank you very much for all these tips
September 14th, 2010 at 3:39
Here I dont know if you would not often read your comments because you must be busy, but I thank you very much for this tutorial .. When I started photography in the evening I had based on your config you!
But hey it was very good market You Soho night club but its so different .. I have kept the principle of slow shutter which gives very good effects, I have sometimes mounted more than 1 second, it depends on some lights. I must say that all boxes are not informed in the same way ... or
THE TIP OF FLASH I LAI MANY USED hahaha and it works!
well thank you to you
October 19th, 2010 at 10:43
Hello Benjamin,
Already all my congratulations for this site is really excellent.
Regarding the picture of the evening. I personally have a D300 with a SB600 flash and a 50mm 1.4 16-85mm 3.5 - 5.6. I used your method of slow setting for my shooting evening and it really works nickel. By cons, when I have a problem hooking the autofocus when I do a "test" flash instead of a trigger, the flash is activated continuously. I was fine the case and reset the flash but always with the same result. Does anyone have experience the same problem? thank you.
November 15th, 2010 at 4:49
My personal ... I think some photo are over-expo and some burn to the face ...
December 13th, 2010 at 7:11
thanks ... thank you for precision and "sharing". Nice job. Especially the picture of the pool bali
February 22nd, 2011 at 12:23
Hello, thank you for this wonderful really great tutorial
Quick question, what kind of retouching do you do? With photoshop? Filters of alien skin style? Or have you created your script?
Thank you in advance of your own.
Lio
March 2nd, 2011 at 10:09
Super tutorial. Only with slow sync, I can not get on the net with a long exposure. I have a 50d with a 580EXII and whatever I try, in M mode when I set a slow speed I actually retrieves the background but my subject is blurred.
March 27th, 2011 at 2:37
Hi benjamin
Thank you very much for this high quality tutorial.
August 9th, 2011 at 4:56
Congratulations, this is a great blog. I found a lot of useful information. I invite you to visit my website, and I would be delighted to welcome you as a member of our site VOSAMIS.FR and talk to your friends. Thank you!
August 15th, 2011 at 11:05
Hi!
Thank you for this great tutorial
I'd like to get into the photo of evening and therefore I would need an SLR. I intend to do it occasionally, not all parties and therefore would need a not too expensive camera to satisfy my cravings.
What would you advise me?
Thank you
October 23rd, 2011 at 7:49
Really good tutorial and your true, I fell exactly the same kind of problem as you, such as the lack of light due to exposure too short time etc ...
Ha and I add also that the flash test button comes in handy when people tend to break a little c **** when they keep repeating "it is zero again"
And I wonder if you've already made the photo in the evening with a fixed focal length? If so, how did it go?
Good luck to you
November 17th, 2011 at 2:58
Perfect
Implementation Friday night
Thank you for this tutorial quality!