The concert is a photo of photographic activity complex that it would be difficult to summarize in one article, however, we will try here to give you the basics and some ideas to make your own way. The most complex to manage here is on light, it will influence on the material, speed, placement, framing, ... here we see through different sections.
The camera: SLR, SLR, compact camera.
In the picture together using a compact digital camera is not recommended, the increase in sensitivity (in iso) of the latter is not without damage, their sensor is smaller, the sound is very present on the images .
The reflex that can change optical functions of each position will allow you to always have the right hardware to suit your subject.
Lenses: fixed focus, zoom, wide open!
Pictured together we seek above all the most luminous optical potential that is to say, those that offer the largest aperture (characterized by the lowest number on the lens).
In digital we must take into account that the sensor size influence on the size of the lens: a 50mm 1.8 will become an interesting 80 mm 1.8
These lenses are also the most expensive, we can separate them into two groups:
The fixed focal lengths:
Have goals that generally offer the best quality - price ratio, in fact, a 50 mm which has a maximum aperture of 1.8 is around 150 euros. The advantages are: the price, weight, opening generally high.The zoom "A zoom is a zoom lens: an extra ring can change the focus of an ongoing, changing along with the magnification of the image but not the prospect of shooting. The zoom lens is technically a multi lens groups, some of which are mobile, which allows to vary the focal length between two extreme values. The numerical ratio between the longest and shortest focal length is called "amplitude" or "power" of the zoom. For example, a 35-105 mm zoom is "3 × zoom." The zoom advantageously replaces a series of fixed focal length lenses. The possibilities of increasing rapidly zooms, ranges from 28 to 70 mm (wide angle to normal) and 70 to 200 mm being the most common. The f/3.5 maximum aperture rarely exceeds for the first and f/4.5 for the latter. But there are professional versions at f/2.8. "Wikipedia source for the photo zoom lenses together who have a constant aperture 2.8 are strongly recommended to address the lack of light.
 |  |  |
Nikon D70 matrix metering, speed 1 / 100 Focal length 28mm, aperture 2.8 iso: 200 | Nikon D70 spot metering, speed 1 / 80 50mm lens, aperture 1.8 iso: 640 | Nikon D70 matrix metering, speed 1 / 60 90mm lens, aperture 2.8 iso: 200 |
Flash: a proscribed
The flash in most of the concert is prohibited, its use removes all the lighting effects that are part of the service. Use in remote or slow sync is potentially feasible as discussed in the section of William Gaessler has dedicated the photo flash and wide angle.
Sensitivity: sensitivity = silver grain in digital noise =
If you work in the 800 ISO film is perfect. There are other more sensitive film (1000, 1600, ISO 3200). The higher you go in isos over the photo will be provided with grain which is quite beautiful in money and contributes to the interest of the photograph.
If you are in this beautiful digital grain transforms into noise see soup pixel, which is much less attractive, we recommend that you stay within the values below 600 isos (the noise is different treaty SLR digital, market the Canon 5D is one of the best manager reflex digital noise).
Speed: not below the focal length or even a little more in Digital
A general rule of speed is not to fall below the size of the lens for a 50mm one does not go down below 1 / 50, seen for the digital conversion factor which "transforms" a 50mm by 80mm we will not fall below 1 / 80 to avoid image blur from the photographer.
This is of course a general rule, the assumption being shot freehand without a tripod, optical or stabilized housing. We must separate the blur of the photographer and the blur of the subject.
For luting against the blur of the case there are several methods:
The tripod: The tripod allows you to stabilize the housing up, but you live a lot in handicap go.
Monopod: monopod as the name suggests is a tripod a foot .... It does of course not the same stability, but allows you more freedom in your travels, it is highly advisable to practice using a monopod before using it in such events
Stabilized lenses and housings: They can gain some valuable speed and thus fall isos.
Note that all these methods are only to reduce camera shake by the photographer, you can be perfectly stable the artist or group it will not be forever. The blur of the subject may be interesting to give an impression of movement speed.
The metering: Center-weighted, spot and matrix
 |
Nikon D70 spot metering, speed 1 / 200 200mm focal length, aperture 2.8 isos: 1400 |
There are three types of metering: Center-weighted, spot and matrix. Although these determinations are variable depending on the hardware, the result remains the same.
The matrix metering: it is for the determination of light on the entire image. It is recommended to use it as often as possible and for all types of shooting landscapes, architecture, close-up portraits.
The center-weighted metering: it prefers about 15% of the image (center), while spot metering concentrates on less than 8% (always at the center).
These measures are almost obligatory picture together, because usually artists are highlighted with respect to the scene itself, working with spot metering on the face of the singer the unit will handle the torque speed / diaphragm how to correctly present the face of the singer regardless of the back of the stage is photographically is probably not very interesting (cables, boxes, pipes ect ...)
Device mode: aperture priority?, Shutter priority?, Manual?
 |
Nikon D70 matrix metering, speed 1 / 250 Focal length 90mm, aperture 2.8 iso: 200 |
For me only the aperture priority and manual mode with an interest: We put on the full aperture of the lens, its speed is monitored so as not to fall below the size of the focal length (to avoid camera shake) framework and it is triggered.
Most digital SLR: Most digital SLR cameras have a feature that auto iso is convenient for the picture together, because if the conditions do not stay in a decent speed fully open mode is activated isos and it switches to manual, it opened on the rule as open as possible, we chose its speed, it switches to spot metering and the camera decides itself isos according to light conditions.
RAW or Jpeg?
Volker Gilbert wrote a very good book on the raw will speak better than me so I quote :
"The RAW (RAW or rather since it is a good package) is raw information collected by the sensor at the time of the shooting. The sensor is color blind-blooded and only receives information brightness usually analyzed using the Bayer array, equipped with RGB color filters. It is clear that raw file requires sophisticated processing to image presentable. And there you have two options:
Trust the DSP processor in your camera that converts the raw file in JPEG or TIFF (rare) by applying the transition all the settings you have previously selected (white balance, saturation, tone curve, color space , sharpness, etc.)..
Perfect, you're finally in possession (try to feel a file, it's hard) of a file ready to use. Happiness? Yes, if you have checked your perfect shot, because the white balance with onions and set your file with impeccable precision. I never did come close to perfection in kicking the JPEG. This is despite the use of traditional techniques (and thermocolorimètre meter), used to overcome my fears facing new technology.
The use of JPEG involves knowing what you do with your image. Offset Printing, publishing Internet, digital photo in Minilab, each use requires very specific development parameters and you can not know in advance whether such and such a picture will not be used in a context different from that originally envisaged.
But beyond the constraints for the choice of parameters, do you know that the JPEG or TIFF is a simplified interpretation, amputated of your captured file? You took care to fit the 4096 shades per channel (12 bits = the depth of a normal digital SLR) to find yourself with 256 levels (8 bits = JPEG or TFF produced by your camera) to the arrival? Well, it's stupid not to choose what you throw in passing ... "
Minimize noise has taken: exposing the right
Working in concert isos to 100 even in the setting is pretty much an illusion, most concerts are limits in terms of light.
The first reflex to reduce noise and increase the shutter speed is to underexpose the picture deliberately shooting to "meet" then the brightness in photoshop.
Digital "face" image even at 100 iso, do not pixelated, but the rise in noise is impressive, the film development is more flexible for this kind of exercise.
In a digital sensor most of the momentum is to the right of the curve in the highlights, which is why I recommend (and I'm not the only) to expose the Areas cramées (right) in order to have the most material located on the right side of the histogram, which allows later to play and contrast while reducing the noise significantly.
A sunny picture right (that is, as close as possible burnt areas) has 800 isos will produce less noise than a underexposed photo has 200 isos noted in photoshop.
Different types of concerts by Sebastien Lebacq : accreditation, places, pictures of examples:
 |
EOS 20D, Canon 17-40 f4 L, 1/400eme, spot metering, ISO 3200, -2/3IL Sebastien Lebacq |
Large concerts type Johnny, U2, Red Hot are certainly spectacular, but without accreditation, take pictures quickly becomes a job for Tom Cruise, not to mention that cameras are often banned at the entrance.
On the other hand, the intimate concerts given in small rooms can be really in the mood, most of the public is within 5 meters of the artist, but the lighting is often much less good. But then in these rooms, cameras are often welcome, both from the manager of the box and on the part of the artist. It accepts with pleasure the photos (usually without flash), and it may be possible to offer the pictures (I did concert mudflow, Belgian rock band ... they were delighted to receive the photos, that they immediately posted on their website).
 |
EOS 20D Lens: Sigma 70-200 f2, 8 1/60th at f2, 8, in Expo 2 / 3 IL ISO 800, matrix metering Sebastien Lebacq |
Example: these pictures were taken during the concert group known enough for people interested in this style of music, but in a small concert hall in Verviers (Belgium), Spirit of 66 (which has a capacity of approximately 300 seats).
Pain of Salvation concert at Spirit of 66: Thanks to the box, you can use the 800 iso without too many problems, as long retreat a little later with the photo software to eliminate much of the noise.
To maintain a sufficient rate, in addition to iso, the large aperture is a major asset.
Being under expose 2 / 3 IL avoids burn out too much of the picture but also to gain in shutter speed.
Photographed together, to have a shot that stands out a bit, it is also important to calculate the timing is triggered to capture an expression or a particular situation.
The 50mm is an excellent view for the photo together, because it has a very open and an amazing dive, not to mention the ridiculously low price and small footprint.
Here in this photo of Popa Chubby concert, Spirit of 66 I decided to ensure the pdc by choosing an aperture of f4, and compensating for greater sensitivity (ISO 1600).
 |
EOS 20D, 50mm f1, 8, matrix metering, ISO 1600 -1 / 3 EV, f4, 1/60th second Sebastien Lebacq |
 |
EOS 20D Lens: Sigma 70-200 f2, 8 1/125eme at f2, 8, in Expo 2 / 3 IL ISO 800, matrix metering Sebastien Lebacq |
The photo flash in conjunction with William Gaessler : Wide and slow sync
 |
Canon EOS 300D 18-55 Guillaume Gaessler |
Unlike photographers with whom I could discuss, I work 99% of the time flash.
THIS IS by cons, together or use of flash is not a problem for the artist or group, I am fan of music known as "saturated" (metal, hardcore ..), the rooms in which I ' attend these concerts are mostly small bars, clubs, usually quite dark, a small stage.
The Caravan Serail which houses a majority of hardcore concerts in Toulouse, is in general for local groups an average of 30 entries, up to 250 for a foreign group "best known".
The maximum capacity of this room should not exceed 130 persons for a minimum of space between each respectable member of the public, as much for that "big dates" you learn quickly to the sardine.
What you should know well in this kind of concert is that the public is generally "hot hot", rather young, most are there to sweat in the hardcore, there is a "dance style" that called KDS (Karate Dancing Style), you can imagine, so be very careful with his equipment, feet flying above the heads are not uncommon.
 |
Canon EOS 300D 18-55 Guillaume Gaessler |
I have used a little Canon EOS 300D digital SLR, my technique is to shoot in slow sync flash, which allows me to have the artist correctly exposed and fixed (with flash) and to have his movements and games light through the long pause on the device (from 1s to 1/15s in general).
I am usually pretty close to the artist (18mm lens) which I think gives an impression of movement even stronger in the picture.
I intend soon buy a wide-angle zoom (10-20mm sigma) for its sharpness and focus ring that has nothing to do with that of the Canon EF-S 18 / 55 mm (because I use no auto focus, light is generally much too low and changing too fast for the autofocus).
May 12th, 2006 at 11:50
top
May 17th, 2006 at 5:08
Thank you, nice tutorials as
May 17th, 2006 at 10:43
Very nice tutorial like!
May 17th, 2006 at 11:17
Excellent tutorial!
May 17th, 2006 at 11:52
Very nice this idea of shooting tutorials concert .. gave a little light on some of
my little escarpades techniques ... when the last 3 pictures .. really great!
May 18th, 2006 at 1:10
Superb! A huge thank you! I have learned well in my second shooting in concert
May 19th, 2006 at 4:10
From AP pass without setting the D70 for 1 week I lost all my bearings ...
Your tutorial, teaching gives me very freely
Remains that the practice
Thank you a thousand times
@ +
Lab
June 4th, 2006 at 3:24
[...] The article about the picture together has also been updated with the participation of William Gaessler which works almost exclusively with flash Ray equipment, I finally decided, the D200 is ordered, and after the seller to deliver the supplier is based on the tide ... I'm just have to burn a candle for me to receive the animal quickly. [...]
June 23rd, 2006 at 24:20
Good good all photos ...
Have you tested the nikon d50 for pictures together?
@ +
June 23rd, 2006 at 3:10
no, but I think that will be very different, the same sensor, has focused on the side of the optics that will manage
August 3rd, 2006 at 9:07
This is a great job that will allow everything to everyone to remember some basics!
Congratulations for this idea
Olive
August 4th, 2006 at 11:13
Great! I will use it well, thank you.
August 27th, 2006 at 12:21
Little question useless for those like me who have been recently in RAW but in terms of white balance, manual or tungsten?
Thank you
A +
August 27th, 2006 at 24:25
En automatique vu que les conditions lumineuses changent en permanence et en raw la bdb se fait après la photo
septembre 18th, 2006 at 11:10
Hello,
Excellent tuto, pour ma part si je dois utiliser le flash, c est en mode Slow,Et yeux rouge sur mon D50 ça donne de tres bon résultat
octobre 3rd, 2006 at 3:42
Salut Ben, bravo pour ton site, tes photo et ce tuto plein d'enseignements! good luck
octobre 17th, 2006 at 12:03
Merci beaucoup pour tous ces conseils bien utile!!
octobre 17th, 2006 at 4:27
si vous deviez recommander un numerique parfaitement adapté aux concerts lequel conseillerez vous?
octobre 17th, 2006 at 7:27
Un canon 5D même si je suis pas fan du boitier il faut bien admettre que niveau gestion du bruit il est très performant
novembre 22nd, 2006 at 12:19
SUper ce tutorial !
novembre 26th, 2006 at 5:38
Super, tout ca saupoudré de bonne musique… (MudFlow, que du bonheur…)
Cheers
février 10th, 2007 at 8:56
[...] Source de cette technique venant du site de Benjamin Brolet [...]
février 17th, 2007 at 8:40
Je viens de lire ton article et je dois dire que je commence un peu a toucher a la photographie, je pensais que ca aurait été plus simple mais ca me plait que ca ne le soit pas au fait… j'ai beaucoup appris en te lisant surtout pour le materiel a utiliser en concert car j'en fait beaucoup et mes photos son généralement trop sombres ( je travaille avec un Canon 350D et je n ai que comme objectif le 18-55 et un 70-200 4.0)maintenant si j ai bien compris je dois économiser pour un autre objectif de 50 avec une plus grande ouverture…
Au fait si tu as l occasion de prendre mon msn pour un peu plus m aiguiller et répondre a un tas de questions ca serait vraiment sympa…
Et avant de m en aller je tiens a te féliciter pour tes photos qui ma fois sont superbes
février 17th, 2007 at 3:17
Salut Buck,
Oui pour du concert il faut du lumineux, un bon compromis pour commencer est un 50mm 1.8, il se trouve facilement en occaz aux alentours des 100 euros et il offre a mon sens le meillieur rapport qualité prix.
Pour répondre a toutes tes questions il existe un tas de forum très sympa dont celui-ci
http://forum.hardware.fr/hfr/Photonumerique/liste_sujet-1.htm
Benjamin
février 19th, 2007 at 1:44
Je vais vous donner un fameux secret pour les prises de vues en concert si vous n'avez pas des objectifs à grande ouverture fixe.
Sous-exposez: même -3 ça fonctionnera & faible iso (50-100).
Résultat gain de vitesse et donc de netteté, comme faible sensitivité, il suffit de relever la luminosité sur photoshop sans rencontrer de mauvaises pixellisations et le tour est rondement mené!
See ya!
LeCed.
février 19th, 2007 at 2:02
Salut Ced,
Je ne suis pas d accord avec ta remarque, et je serais plutot partisant de surexposer, une photo sous exposee a 100 isos sera bien plus bruitee que une photo bien exposee a 800 isos.
Un article assez interessant de Volker Gilbert parle de l exposition a droite en RAW
Travailler a 100 isos en concert même en sous exposant beaucoup est assez illusoire, la plupart des concerts sont très limites en terme de lumière, J'ai déja essayé de travailler de la sorte au début et le résultat est assez désastrueux (histograme en peigne, abérations chromatiques, bruit très présent )
En numérique “relever” une image même a 100 isos, ne pixelise pas, mais la montée en bruit est impressionante, le film au dévelopement est plus souple pour ce genre d'exercice.
Dans un capteur numérique le gros de la dynamique se situe a droite de la courbe, raison pour laquelle je recommande d'exposer à la limite des zones cramées afin d' avoir le plus de matière située dans la partie droite de l'histogramme, ce qui permet par la suite de jouer du contraste et de l'expo ce qui permet d'aténuer grandement le bruit.
Travailler en RAW ( 16bits) pour ce genre de photos est pour moi obligatoire afin de conserver un maximum de détails et de modelé.
A photo is well exposed on the right for me 800 isos will produce less noise in a photo set has 200 isos noted in photoshop. We are talking about a print or an image 100%.
Box photoshop in this kind of event I'd rather avoid it up when you come back from a concert and you have to deliver images, go through 200 photos exposed for editing in Photoshop, I prefer to avoid.
On the net someone had shown this method of raising and lower isos with photoshop and exhibit strong against high isos, the results speak for themselves.
I'll be watching tonight to find this comparison, in the meantime if you have images to illustrate your method does not hesitate.
June 3rd, 2007 at 24:01
[...] A few technical references: Photography on Wikipedia Portal Photography - Theory and Practice of Wikipedia Technique of photo together with "photob.be" [...]
June 3rd, 2007 at 12:06
It's nice to share little secrets
I tried to exercise on my blog ( http://www.alaingrodard.fr/blog/2007/06/03/tutorial-techniques-pour-la-photo-de-concert/ )
and I allowed myself to linker this page ...
June 5th, 2007 at 11:58
Alain thank you, I took the opportunity to rework my text and add sections
June 6th, 2007 at 2:46
Between us we will do the best tutorial in the world
June 30th, 2007 at 12:03
July 26th, 2007 at 2:48
I'm an amateur photos of concerts, I do it intensively for 3 years or so. Congratulations for the pictures and advice, I would also say that it is interresting to take a look in the audience from time to time, it allows pictures of nice atmosphere (crowd surfing, circle pit ...)
July 30th, 2007 at 8:32
Mitch, Thanks for your comment sorry for the answer to the flock, I am as amateur as you
and indeed the public is something I forget which is actually very interesting
Thank you for your post
August 3rd, 2007 at 24:08
Amazing tutorial! Thank you so much to offer all these things. Personally, I practice in the concerts last year (with learning by doing as they say) and I started to develop some techniques to improve my images. I could, too, try some musical events "neo-mad" (those in which gravity is no longer de rigueur). I think it's interesting to talk about it here
! As I am still a novice, I was able to enjoy all these generous information! If you want to take a look at the assoc 'with which I work:
http://www.lillelanuit.com
Thank you again for this great job!
March 5th, 2008 at 4:12
[...] Neophytes. For more information, I recommend the excellent article by Benjamin BROLET on its website http://www.photob.be . It reads information on the type of device and [...]
April 27th, 2008 at 11:46
Thank you very much for your great tutorial !!!!!
I tried to follow your advice during the festival Zik'n trolls Ménéac (Britain) this weekend because I had never done pictures with my D80
I put someone to the following address:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24903591 @ N05/2443878478 /
Congratulations again, it wants more ....
May 7th, 2008 at 2:50
Thank you for your passage Benjamin, I have long watched an opportunity to put a link to your article oh so interesting (mouarf, lick boots the ball!).
The list is indeed full of assholes, I'll include those willing to push yourself to stick to the stage and film with their compact, while the photos and videos are strictly prohibited as specified in the entry, you have fought for nearly three weeks to get your accreditation hyper limited, and the asshole in question only had to hide their compact in an inside pocket. Sad.
May 14th, 2008 at 11:35
thank you for the advice, I begin to crack as nothing to do with money, and live my d80 I wanted to throw it away, going to practice this, thank you again
May 28th, 2008 at 9:05
thank you for this tutorial very explicit
So if I understand it is better to set right
I have a naive question: if you underexpose by 2 / 3 IT as in the photo of Concert Pain of Salvation you bring the exhibition to the left of the historic right? This is not contradictory with the first board?
anyway thank you for all of the above
June 28th, 2008 at 12:16
Ha, Sebastien Lebacq knowledge ... yet!
September 4th, 2008 at 9:55
Good evening Ben,
in preparation for a shoot tomorrow, I retraced this article very comprehensive and very useful (thanks!). One thing remains unclear to me: overexposure to the right.
I understand the value under more generous (outside during the day for example) but here is beyond me.
Let me explain with an example: imagine opening my 50mm to max 1.8, Av mode, ISO speed to 400 and well exposed: 1 / 30 ie very limited.
From what I read, ideally should overexpose one or two notches, to have more material, the digital is more efficient in the highlights. Ultimately less noise.
Only if I want to keep the same speed I will have to increase the ISO, so adding the cause of the noise!
What is the interest of overexposure in such conditions?
Thank you!
October 18th, 2008 at 7:51
[...] Advice and method. I started with photos of show were greatly influenced by ICI. (Non-commercial pages, although [...]
November 6th, 2008 at 1:42
[...] Account (too reactive). As I was documenting a little before you go, I was reading this: photob.be | Benjamin BROLET | Photographer Brussels »Photo concert Excellent site, very educational, if you are ever to make a [.. .]
November 25th, 2008 at 3:36
Good morning.
To begin, thank you for this tutorial.
I just switch to digital (Canon 450d), better late than never, and I've never used pro photo editing software (at least not yet) ...
A few weeks ago, when I had my digital camera a few days ago, I was photographing friends in concerts.
I chose the easy way tungsten, iso 1600, 75/300 (max length: 4) and shutter priority 1 / 160 with Burst option to nab the right light and expressions, and (shame on me after reading these explanations ), jpeg output format). (Of course without flash, it goes without saying!)
I did not know the scene.
I go back in a month and I'm a little concerned because I am far from mastering this case (my money to a cell so bp, for everything is manual, I hassle ...).
The pictures I took are all clear but some are more than good, others often lack a ch'touille light or are outright black and blue (they love the blue and magenta in this room )
You talk about the exhibition on the right (so if I just entered on my case, it is a correction of the white ...).
At goal, I found a 85 mm 1.8. of occasions.
So I am considering this show (without the question of the exhibition because I hope someone will tell me if I understood or not), as follows:
- Focus lens with max speed 1 / 125 regardless of the lens (I take my 85 and my 75 / 300)
- Iso 800 for the noise in some photos was not really top.
- Naturally RAW output format!
Do you have suggestions / corrections to offer me?
Let me know!
Thank you in advance and sorry to expose my ignorance on some points ...
November 25th, 2008 at 3:39
Sorry, I just saw that I am a Freudian slip!
(...) The exposure right (so if I just entered on my case, it is a correction BLUE) (...).
February 8th, 2009 at 5:14
[...] Get my 70-200mm f/2.8 IS. The technology was on my side. For the technique, I read the article dedicated to the picture together, proposed by Benjamin BROLET (ITW's here) on his beautiful [...]
March 6th, 2009 at 1:39
[...] Mounted ISO is necessary and recommended the maximum aperture (Very good tutorial on "the picture together" by Benjamin BROLET), was equipped with only an old 75-150mm f4.5 on [. ..]
March 27th, 2009 at 1:30
Super interesting all these technical tutorials, thank you
June 22nd, 2009 at 1:57
This is a great tutorial. I totally agree with everything you say and that's exactly the way I work. It reassures me! I found your site recently and I think you're doing a very good job. A regular visitor!
June 29th, 2009 at 2:13
Congratulations !!!!!
December 23rd, 2009 at 11:48
Thank you for this great article with lots of useful tips! Too bad I do not fall over ... more
February 2nd, 2010 at 4:36
Hello! I love how the site works and the various articles etc ... tonight I'll take pictures of a concert of Orleans and I do not know the conditions under which I will have to make the shoot! but I already carry photo live entertainment like dancing! The lights are more intense and better managed! (And I was in digital!) Here I am in a small room and I take my SLR! So I cross my fingers to be responsive! I have noted your advice and hope it will be enough! thank you for info!
March 4th, 2010 at 1:46
I have not fully understood the game:
"Minimizing the noise has taken: exposing a right" and in the history of exposure because it is post marked:
"Being under expose 2 / 3 IL cramer avoids too much of the picture but also to gain in shutter speed."
It is recommended that first pushed a special iso instead of under exposure, then underexpose anyway?
Or should I combine the two?
In anticipation of your help,
Friendly
July 28th, 2010 at 3:11
[...]? And you're more raw or jpeg? Articles to read and reread. Virus in Raw or JPEG Photo Photo by Benjamin BROLET together. [!] Submit an idea, article or bug. Processing your request, Please [...]
November 11th, 2010 at 3:13
[...] In ISO is necessary and recommended the maximum aperture (Very good tutorial on "the picture together" by Benjamin BROLET), was equipped with only an old 75-150mm f4.5 on the [.. .]
December 17th, 2010 at 11:59
[...] http://www.photob.be/technique/la-photo-de-concert/ [...]
April 23rd, 2011 at 4:11
Very interesting article for me who loves to take pictures during my concerts. I will try to apply all the advice I have just discovered.
June 12th, 2011 at 7:32
[...] Photo by Benjamin BROLET together [...]
August 12th, 2011 at 1:38
Ah yes indeed, tutorial 'fun! Thanks, it will ...
November 24th, 2011 at 11:10
Great! an article very useful. I worked more with feeling and randomly mixed. To be continued after the test. Fingers crossed
December 26th, 2011 at 3:40
hello,
I read with great interest this article.
I am looking to get a DSLR to take photos of concerts and photo underground (caving in)
board, make, model at an affordable price?
thank you.